My attempt at Hydraulic mcpherson Struts

[Tony100]

what you guys think??  :cool:  Waits for abuse...

[fatdaddy]

that's a good start.
You need to machine the top end to fit in the OEM bearing. Don't rely on a bolt as it will come loose with the steering turning so you machine  a replica of the original strut top (that's why you need a longer then standard rod)
I hope you pressure tested the bottom fitting 'cos its in there for good now!
The body usually needs honing after welding to keep good seal life.

[Tony100]

that's a good start.
You need to machine the top end to fit in the OEM bearing. Don't rely on a bolt as it will come loose with the steering turning so you machine  a replica of the original strut top (that's why you need a longer then standard rod)
I hope you pressure tested the bottom fitting 'cos its in there for good now!
The body usually needs honing after welding to keep good seal life.

To get it hon'd do i take it to a place that does bottom end honing on a car?? im sure they will do it wont theyy??

with regards to the OEM bearing im stuck as to know what to do? i cant machine them down they wont go small enough the standad OEM nut is 19mm? and it wont be machined that far to fit a 19mm nut any ideas?

i was thinking of a peice of threaded bar spot welded to the top?? or threaded bar with a nut to tighten it ?? im lost i dunno wot to do nxt?

[fatdaddy]

you can buy a honing stone a a tenner, with spring loaded mounts and a flex shaft. just put the shaft in a drill and hone with lots of thin oil.
why wont it machine small enough ?
just stick it in the lathe and make a copy of the original.
threaded bar is no where near strong enough, very low tensile. The cylinder rod will be at least equal to a high tensile bolt, nearer an Allen bolt.

you did the measuring before all this, right? you need that to know where the shoulder goes when you machine the tops.
you should know the fully lifted limit of the suspension [without straining the joints], that = the open  length.
and the fully dropped length = the closed length.

if the closed length is wrong you wont get enough drop.
if the fully open length is wrong you will either get no lift or you will rip the suspension joints apart.
if your pics are with the rod fully out I would guess you'll only have abaout 100mm travel once finished and installed.